Once, Twice, Three Times a Beauty
Aquascape Pondside Monthly October 2008
Ah, the glamour of owning a pond! The waterfront living, the visit from wildlife of all shapes and sizes, the envy of your friends and neighbors. Owning a pond has been a purely enjoyable experience for you … or has it?
The truth is that anyone who owns a pond will find themselves frustrated with it at some point in time. A lot of times, that time comes in the pond’s second season. By the third season, everything seems right in the world. The pond is clean, clear and gorgeous. Is it a coincidence that so many pond lovers are ready to throw in the towel during the pond’s second season, and singing its praises the next year? There may actually be a science to it.
In the Beginning
In order to better understand the progression of a pond, we must start from the beginning. Do you remember when you first plugged in your pump and watched the waterfall make its way down the stream and into your pond paradise? It was an exciting time and you were thrilled by the results. Your next question, undoubtedly, was, “When will the water clear?” It didn’t take long before the water was clear and your landscaping was in, completing that natural look.
You were eager to take care of the new pond, much like the teenager across the street with his first car. While he was out washing and waxing his car, you were fertilizing your water lilies and adding your beneficial bacteria. The pond was so easy to take care of because you wanted to enjoy this new hobby.
On to Two
The second year, you performed your annual cleanout, but the newness of the pond has worn off and you aren’t as religious about keeping everything in check. That’s when the green algae monster decides to come for a visit. With no one keeping an eye on the pond, he decides to unpack and stay awhile. This is when that frustration sets in. “All of a sudden it seems like more work for you and the pond, and it will be if you don’t stay on top of it,” Brian Helfrich, Construction Manager for Aquascape Designs, said. “The pond is in the process of maturing, and some people have no patience for it.”
To some, it may not make sense. After all, if you perform an annual cleanout, shouldn’t the pond be brand spanking new again? Don’t you wash all of the stuff from the previous season away? Nope. There are several living organisms hiding out in the rocks and gravel, the root zones of aquatic plants, and hanging out in open water that are helping your pond become established. They’re called zooplankton. Zooplankton are microscopic animals that are suspended within the water column. These zooplankton, which are instrumental in winning the algae fight, are not fully matured by the second season.
Skip the Annual Cleanout?
By now, you’re fighting with yourself. You’ve been told that a annual cleanout is a necessity, but you want your zooplankton to grow so you can skip the second-season blahs. Should you say “so long” to the annual cleanout? “Absolutely not,” Helfrich says. “An annual cleanout is vital to a healthy ecosystem, especially in colder climates where ponds freeze over.” According to Helfrich, you can’t speed up the pond maturation process. “A pond is like a fine, aged wine. You have to give it time,” he says.
That Fine Balance
You always hear that a well-balanced pond is an ecosystem, but did you know that an ecosystem needs to hit a certain threshold to function properly? During the first two seasons of life, a pond goes through many changes and a maturation process that involves the growth of beneficial organisms, plants, algae, and a bio-slime of sorts. When your pond is first built, none of that stuff is there, so it seems to be balanced, but as all of these pond organisms develop, there’s a stage of adjustment that the pond needs to go through … thus, the infamous second-season slump. The third season emerges with great looking plants that are in their second or third year of growth and are healthier than ever, adding to the beauty of the balance of pond.
What About You?
Believe it or not, you also have a role in the success of your pond. That’s right, the maturity of the pond owner has a lot to do with whether or not the pond can get through those growing pains. It’s a learning curve, and the second season is when we figure out how to battle algae and keep our pond looking healthy. “At the beginning of the second season, I think people are struggling to get their ponds in shape so they do more harm than good,” Helfrich said. “They tend to get to picky and want it really clean, trying to kill off everything. This only makes it worse.”
Helfrich admits that the old phrase “it’s always darkest before the dawn” rings true when it comes to a pond. “It almost has to get really bad before it can get better. And if a person understands that and is patient, they’ll be much better off,” he said.
Patience is a Virtue
Like all things in life, good things come to those who wait. It may be frustrating to watch your pond go through growing pains, but with a little research and/or help from a local expert, you can help it along the way. The best thing to do when you’re smack dab in the middle of a rough second season is to take Helfrich’s words to heart. “Remember the good things about the pond when you first got it and think ahead to the great things that are in store for you and your pond once you get through the rough patches,” Helfrich said. “I guarantee you that it is worth it!”
Category: Caring for Your Water Feature | February 9th, 2009
Our featured project is custom water garden featuring a 20-foot stream with a series of waterfalls leading into a 20ft. x 25ft. pond.
A 4ft. x 6ft. up flow wetland filter (bog) provides additional filtration needed for client’s large Koi collection.
A vanishing edge was built into the feature to eliminate the need for and mechanical look of a skimmer, and the vanishing edge enters into an 8ft. stream, which leads to an 8ft. x 10ft. pondless waterfall basin.
This water garden holds approximately 7,000 gallons of water, of which 1,200 gallons reside in the pondless waterfall basin.
Full project description and photographs »
Category: Featured Project | August 26th, 2008
Nominated for the 2008 Georgia Family Business of the Year Awards. The award from the Cox Family Enterprise Center recognizes and honors businesses that contribute to society and to the state. Continue reading »
Category: News & Press | December 9th, 2007
The following reading materials are recommended by Liquid Landscapes to enhance your gardening experience.
Water Gardening
- The Ecosystem Pond by Aquascape Lifestyles Books
- The Pond Builder’s Bible by Aquascape Lifestyles Books
- Water Garden Lifestyles by Aquascape Lifestyles Books
- Pond Building for Hobbyists by Aquascape Lifestyles Books
- The Hobbyist’s Guide to Pond Fish by Aquascape Lifestyles Books
- Encyclopedia of Water Garden Plants by Greg and Sue Speichert
Plants, Shrubs, & Trees
- The Well Tended Perennial Garden by Tracy DiSabato-Aust
- The Well Designed Perennial Garden by Tracy DiSabato-Aust
- Gardening with Conifers by Adrian Bloom
- Dirr’s Hardy Trees and Shrubs: An Illustrated Encylopedia by Michael A. Dirr
- Dirr’s Trees and Shrubs for Warm Climates by Michael A. Dirr
- Japanese Maples by J. D. Vertrees and Peter Gregory
- Armitage’s Native Plants for North American Gardens by Allan M. Armitage
- Armitage’s Garden Perennials: A Color Encyclopedia by Allan M. Armitage
Category: Articles | November 28th, 2007
Daniel Saylor and Andre Theriot partnered with Kelly Bors from Stone Forest to retrofit the existing water garden at North Metro Technical College located in Acworth Georgia. Continue reading »
Category: News & Press | November 27th, 2007
- Remove leaves, debris and other organic material from the pond.
- At 60 degrees Fahrenheit water temperature, switch to a low temperature fish food.
- At 55 degrees Fahrenheit water temperature, stop feeding altogether.
- Cut back hardy plants, but leave some grasses for winter appeal.
- Remove tropical plants from the pond. Treat as annuals and discard, or move indoors and treat as houseplants.
- Decide if you’re going to run the waterfall throughout the winter or shut down the pond. A winter waterfall can provide some beautiful ice sculptures, but you must be on the lookout for ice dams that can cause your pond to lose water.
- Remove the pump and store it in a bucket of water in a frost-free location.
- Remove the skimmer mats and brushes, clean, and store in a dry location.
- Drain the BIOFALLS filter by opening the check valve.
- Remove the BIOFALLS filter mats and biomedia, clean, and store in a dry location.
- Add an air pump, bubbler, or de-icer to keep a hole in the ice for gas exchange and to add oxygen to the water.
- Enjoy your winter pond and wait for spring.
Category: Caring for Your Water Feature | November 19th, 2007
- Prepare fish holding containers. Make sure that you make provisions for covering each container with a net to keep the fish from jumping out.
- Drain the pond. Don’t forget to fill one of more separate containers with pond water where the fish can be kept while the pond is being cleaned.
- Disconnect the Circulation System. This will allow the water in the plumbing to drain.
- Catch the fish. Drain the pond to roughly 6 inches of water in order to catch the fish easily and safely.
- Remove Debris. All large debris, such as leaves, pine needles and twigs should be removed by hand.
- Remove your plants from the pond. This is especially important if you plan to use a high-pressured washer. Place them in either the same containers used for holding your fish, or provide a separate holding container.
- Wash the pond (optional). A 1500-PSI pressure washer or high-pressure nozzle on a garden hose is recommended. This step may not be necessary each year, or in all situations, but it’s best to make that evaluation when the pond is drained and large debris has been removed.
- Rinse the pond even if you don’t do the optional thorough cleaning. Take the time to rinse the pond after debris is removed, while continuing to pump out the dirty water.
- Clean the filter and skimmer. Spray down all filtration media and rinse down the filter and skimmer units as well.
- Trim, cull and replace plant material. Before adding plants to the pond, take the time to trim back and split them to ensure that they don’t overwhelm the pond or become root – bound in their containers
- Refill the pond. Pull out the clean-out pump and begin refilling the pond.
- Re-connect the circulation system. Check and tighten all connections.
- Turn the system back on. Once the pond is full, begin circulating the water again.
- De-chlorinate the water. Most city water contains either chlorine or chloramines and should be treated but if you’re not sure what’s in the water, treat it with a product like Nursey Pro’s EcoStarter, which will remove both.
- Check you pH level. It should be in the 6.5 – 8.5 pH range.
- Add bacteria. Jumpstart your pond’s biological system by adding bacteria. Make sure water temperatures are above 55 degrees Fahrenheit.
- Check the fish for disease or infections. It is recommended that you treat the fish in their temporary holding containers before re-introducing them into your pond. If you can’t do this, then use a medicated food once the fish are back in the pond.
- Take inventory of your fish. The recommended stock rate is 10” of fish for every 100 gallons of water. If you exceed that, you may want to consider offering some fish to your friends, neighbors, or other pond owners you may know.
- Acclimate your fish to your new pond water. A spring cleanout can be stressful to fish, so proper acclimation is suggested to decrease stress and prevent possible health problems.
- Turn on the pond and enjoy your pond for another year!
Category: Caring for Your Water Feature | November 19th, 2007
Mosquitoes generally only lay their eggs in stagnant water. So, as long as you have moving water you will be fine. As a bonus, fish love to consume any larvae that exist.
Category: Water Garden FAQ's | November 19th, 2007